East Nashville, West Nashville: Two different groups of restaurateurs have independently adopted a beloved South-of-the-Border specialty as their menu centerpiece, beckoning diners with their rosters of creative, uncommon fillings. Both restaurants bring departures from the norm in casual contemporary settings and incorporate new trends with green and local practices. Both have been cleverly, and aptly, named. Nuvo Burrito opened just weeks ago in East's Five Points, making its splash at the August Tomato Art Fest, and The Local Taco, in the heart of Sylvan Park, debuted in time to celebrate Cinco de Mayo.
The Local Taco
Taking over a spot that has housed many eateries over the years (Bro's, Portland Brew, Red Rooster, Murphy's Loft, Goldie's), The Local Taco owner John Ko and partners have given the place a clean, new face, with bright white, yellow and blue hues. The covered outdoor dining area, with comfortable seating and breezy overhead fans, is especially inviting.
With a commitment to using local ingredients where possible, The Local Taco has developed an area network of sources for many key menu items: white corn chips and soft flour tortillas from La Hacienda, House of Hickory smoked meats and produce from the Farmer's Market. In the beverage listing, you'll find Arrington Wines and Yazoo Beer. Blackberries from Cross Plains infuse the Sangria.
There are nine taco variations priced at $2.50 each, making it easy and fun to sample several.
When we visited earlier this summer, we found their Korean Barbecue Beef taco to be the most original and full flavored: gingery-grilled tenders of sirloin sprinkled with scallions, toasted sesame and topped with an Asian cabbage salad. But we were disappointed; the tacos were sparsely filled.
Responding to customer feedback regarding portions and seasoning, the kitchen has made adjustments and gotten into stride. The tacos have been plumped up. On our recent visit, all tacos sampled at our table were generously filled with smoked brisket of beef, flash-fried shrimp, tangy carnitas-style pork, tender lime marinated chicken, and wrapped in fresh, soft tortillas.
Their accompanying sauces and garnishes were fresh, perhaps a little timid, but you have options. There's a duo of house-made salsas, with chips for an additional $2.50.
But, for 30 cents, you'd be well served to get their sweet-hot "Bang-Bang" sauce. Made with fresh habanero chili peppers and lime juice, it delivered mucho bang for the penny. Because it's a thin (as in viscosity — not flavor) dipping sauce, a few drops sprinkled on buttermilk fried chicken or crispy fish delivered the spice without compromising the crunch. Its lively heat brightened everything.
The Local Taco intends to keep things interesting. Be on the lookout for tacos of the day and seasonal specials. A Lemongrass Thai Chicken Taco sounded intriguing, and Mexican Meatloaf might provide tasty comfort food on a cool autumn evening.
In the meantime, as summer wanes, enjoy a glass of Local Sangria on the patio.
Nuvo Burrito
Tucked behind Marche in the Walnut Exchange building, Nuvo Burrito is a small place with personality as big as its burritos. The space is contemporary and playful: metal tables, wooden chairs, concrete floors, exposed ductwork, walls hung with Judy Kuniansky's Word photography and flat-screen televisions with fun footage from Nuvo's own Web site. The staff is friendly and engaging. Several menu items have goofy names.
And the burritos are very big. Every one we sampled was almost two meals in one. Generally, the ideas are good, some are great and some need balancing.
In the Lonestar, the shredded beef was moist, but sweet — no char or intense heat. It was a little lost in the Spanish rice and refried beans.
The Heart of Dixie featured mashed sweet potato with caramelized onions, slaw, black beans, jack cheese and bacon. A fresh combination, but the quantity of sweet potato overpowered all the other elements.
The Berkeley, filled with artichoke hearts, well-seasoned black beans and rice, fresh sprouts and spinach, jack cheese, and laced with cilantro pesto and cumin-corn relish, was perfectly prepared. It reminded us of a burrito once enjoyed from a little seaside kiosk in Mendocino, Calif. — and that's pretty terrific.
In another category, Nuvo Burrito offers its "Ques-Ideas." Their take on the quesadilla is more of a grilled flatbread sandwich. There were pleasing flavor profiles in the 90210 spread with goat cheese, layered with artichoke hearts, roasted red peppers, shredded chicken and cilantro. However, we found the amount of chicken to be meager. Nothing, however, was lacking in the Kupaianaha! — that's Hawaiian for "Awesome." Yes, it's a mouthful both to say and eat. Meaty pulled roast pork and diced ham, juicy bites of pineapple and pungent jalapeno melded with the right amount of tomato sauce and melted mozzarella. Deliciously true to its name. Open less than two months, Nuvo Burrito is still evolving. The owners are working on getting a beer license. The kitchen is honing the recipes. It will help to adjust portions: sometimes more is less; other times, more is necessary. Burrito lovers are looking for assertive flavors.
With a few menu tweaks, you'd be able to say Kupaianaha! to just about everything.
