Zumi Sushi, the latest restaurant to emerge on Hillsboro Village's Belcourt Avenue, is a successful and tasty melding of opposites. Old meets new; fast meets slow, East meets West.
For owner Patrick Burke, a Vanderbilt graduate and no stranger to the neighborhood, this Zen-like approach was the way to offer fresh, healthy food in a casual but chic setting at affordable prices. There is economy in simplicity.
Beginning with the renovation of an early 20th-century bungalow, the spare contemporary interior, with its open space, clean lines of blond wood, black tables and pendant lighting, recalls an Eastern aesthetic while retaining the structure's original architectural elements. There's also a strong neighborhood feel. Tables are set up for outdoor dining on the sociable streetside front porch as well as the more intimate back upper deck.
On entry, you'll be welcomed by one of the staff who will guide you to the menu and explain the procedure. Broken out into categories of First Tastes, Sashimi, Rolls, Bowls and Entrees, the menu is further color-coded to identify spicy, uncooked, vegetarian or signature dishes. After you place your order at the cash register, you'll take your table number, get your beverage and choose your seat. Gratuities are not accepted. But, in short order, your beautifully plated food will be served to you on white rectangular or square china.
Vanderbilt item dazzles
The flavorful — and inclusive — array of Japanese-derived dishes have familiar ingredients, such as ginger, avocado and tempura shrimp, and less familiar ingredients, such as inari (fried tofu) and aonori (dried seaweed). In creating the menu, Burke worked with several chefs, notably the late Gary Flood, well-respected sushi master from California, and Jason McConnell of Sol in Franklin. Anyone from raw fish lovers to sushi novices to vegetarians will find palate-pleasing options.
The Signature Rolls were made with the most care and were the most enjoyable to sample. One of the uncooked offerings, The Great Flood, featured red salmon rolled with cucumber, and a surprise: tempura avocado for a buttery crunch and light, lemon bite.
Tempura appeared again in the Crunchy Shrimp Roll, where crab and avocado were paired with batter-fried crustacean. Brilliant combed stripes of spicy aioli and sweet mirin-infused soy glaze lined the length of plate. It's a nice combination of textures, a harmony of sweet-salt-spice-heat.
The Black and Gold, a nod to nearby Vanderbilt University, dazzled. Placed mandala-like on the plate, each nori-wrapped round of white tuna and rice was finished in a light tempura and crowned with a feather of crab salad. Contrasting sauces of bracing red house chili and sweet soy dotted the plate perimeter.
You don't have to be vegetarian to love the Green Sesame Roll. A mosaic of carrot, cucumber, blanched pencil-thin asparagus, kanpyo (a type of dried gourd, like calabash) and tofu, it was artfully topped with a train of sliced avocado, accompanied by little pools of creamy ginger miso dipping sauce.
If you're seeking something other than sushi, the Japanese kitchen is open. From the First Tastes column, try the signature Gary's Gyozas. These delicate dumplings were filled with a moist, intensely spiced pork and pan seared to a perfect dry-crisp. Dipped in vinegary soy, these could become an addiction.
There were a couple of easily correctable missteps. Citrus Sesame Chicken Salad was almost wonderful. The citrus dressing was light, fresh with orange zest and cracked black peppercorns, and we enjoyed the cashews, mandarin oranges and crispy saifun noodles (like Styrofoam, but in a good way!) strewn throughout the salad. But the cilantro promised was missing, and the mixed lettuces were instead replaced with romaine; the dish would have tasted better as described on the menu. Also, the weary teriyaki chicken served on the side of the plate would have benefited from a soak in the citrus.
Kids aren't forgotten
With a heady mix of red curry paste and coconut milk, Basil Mango Curry had bold, complex flavors. The bowl was filled with planks of grilled chicken breast, julienned red peppers, onions, and rice noodles, garnished with a cluster of Thai basil and ripe mango slices. Had the noodles not been glommed together, it would have been a marvelous dish.
It's refreshing to see creativity in the kids' menu. Look under the Zumi Kids heading. There are five offerings that pair Asian flavors with kid-friendly dishes, such as Panko chicken with veggies and rice, chicken-noodles bowl and crunchy shrimp rice pocket. If available, these come with a Japanese ginger cookie.
Zumi Sushi is a solid dining addition to Hillsboro Village, more than filling a void left when Taste of Tokyo closed earlier this year. With his casual yet chic, fast yet refined model, it's easy to imagine Mr. Burke introducing Zumi Sushi to other neighborhoods. Zoom-zoom.
Zumi Sushi Japanese Kitchen
2119 Belcourt Avenue, Nashville; 615-383-5770; www.zumisushi.com
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun-Thurs, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri-Sat.
Payment: Major credit cards accepted
Reservations: for group parties
Alcohol: Japanese and domestic beers/sakes; limited red and white wine
Food: sushi, Japanese/Asian inspired cuisine
Cost: sashimi/sushi: $3.95-$9.95; salads/bowls/entrees: $6.95-$10.95
Parking: on street, area parking lots
Kid’s menu: Yes
