Suzy Wong's House of Yum

Owner Arnold Myint at his newest see-and-be-seen spot, Suzy Wong's House of Yum. (Credit: John Partipilo/The Tennessean)

Byrd's Eye View - Suzy Wong's House of Yum

The latest eatery to join the Myint dynasty

In China, the dragon is a symbol of imperial power and good fortune; two dragons means doubly blessed. At Suzy Wong's House of Yum, that symbol is no stranger. On the front display window, the entwined tails of two dragons portend good dining fortune. Flying the ceiling's length in the form of a spectacular painted-pieced kite, those dragons oversee a clever and campy restaurant where you can slip in to enjoy Asian-inspired cocktails and tapas.

This latest Arnold Myint (of PM and Cha-Chah) creation, in partnership with Zeus Enterprises (Tribe, Play), has transformed former restaurant Red's shotgun spot on Church Street into a fun, seductive space, combining modern and retro elements with an underworld mystique of the Orient.

Taking its name from the 1960 film The World of Suzie Wong, the love story of an ex-pat artist in Hong Kong and a prostitute, this Suzy's House of Yum is a self-described brothel of epicurean delight.

Set in dark, purpled tones with rosy-red up-lighting, the restaurant offers numerous arrangements where you can linger over a lychee cocktail or nosh on pot-stickers: cushioned banquettes, ottomans and a singular rippled curved booth. There's fun in the details: Tables flicker with votives decorated with images of Suzy Wong women. Period films, soundless, move across the flat screen by the granite bar. Through the back door, the multi-tiered and bamboo-landscaped lounge and patio, furnished with contemporary low-slung sofas and private cabanas, provide compelling outdoor seating options.

A full bar is offered, with ample wine selections. But the atmosphere warrants an exotic cocktail as the food's accomplice. Seven designer drinks top the list. La Nouvelle Mode was complex, heady: mixing Yamazaki aged whiskey with ginger-infused cognac, orange and cherry - ideal for refined sipping on cool nights. Ginger notes abound. They're smoky in the Yazi Ginger Orange-Ade; fragrant, floral, in Lolita's Kiss. The sweet, refreshing Lychee Cocktail combined lychee vodka and liqueur with lime, ginger ale and the fruit itself, bobbing like a large opalescent grape in the glass.

The style of dining is designed for sharing: a series of small plates and bowls. There are numerous vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free dishes, all of which are clearly denoted on the menu.

If you like loaded nachos, the Suzy Wong style will appeal - wonton crisps layered with pulled pork, queso, edamame and red curry crema. For lighter fare, try the delicately crafted vegetable gyoza potstickers. Served with a simple soy dipping sauce, these creamy filled dumplings disappeared quickly at our table. The pork ribs, encrusted with five-spice powder, also won round approval, a toothsome crackle encasing moist meat.

Pass the Yum Bowls around your table, family style. Peanut Sauce Chicken Penang featured nuggets of chicken breast cooked with red and green peppers, sweet potato and onion in a sauce of silky coconut milk and peanut - rich, but a little salty. Lemongrass Vegetable Tofu Stir-fry was a lively sauté of marinated tofu and all manner of veggies, including julienne peppers, green beans, sprouts, broccoli and mushrooms. You can order a side of either steamed brown or white rice to accompany the bowls.

Suzy Wong's has playful and sophisticated allure. And her house is open seven nights, serving Yum plates, bowls and cocktails Wednesdays through Sundays into the wee hours of the morning. My, my. Dining with dragons was never more fun.