At The Table's fare is fresh, delicious
The vegetables are what really set this restaurant apart. Hudson and crew know when to leave well enough alone, as with the greens, which are bought at the Farmers Market, cleaned before your eyes and simmered in potlikker fashion with just enough salt to summon the leaves' funky broth.
Pinto beans and black-eyed peas are started dry, simmered long and slow, and are likewise gently seasoned. By no means is this health food, but At the Table's fare is markedly less salty and greasy than its competitors.
One category to avoid is most anything with cheese, because here that often means Velveeta. A turkey casserole slathered with the stuff is gummy and bland, and steamed broccoli is served with a runny robe of the charlatan goo.
The mac-and-cheese is made with the real thing, but in this case a light touch on the salt robs the side dish of its usual allure.
Mashed potatoes come chunky and laden with a silky gravy, and the fried apples are a good bet as well. The fried corn is sweetened so much that it's best eaten for dessert, but that works out just fine if you're willing to be flexible.